V-Frame Industrial legs

Each leg fixes flat to the underside of your top through the mounting plate, using the 5mm x 25mm wood screws supplied. The plate has slotted holes so a solid wood top can expand and contract across the grain through the seasons without straining against the screws. Your top needs to be at least 18mm thick to give the screws enough grip. Mark up, pilot-drill, and screw down: a drill is the only tool you need, and a step-by-step guide comes with every set. Lift rather than drag the finished table when you move it and the fixings stay tight. If you would rather talk it through first, we are on the phone, email and WhatsApp.

At table and desk height, as a guide a set carries up to 150kg with a well-built top. That figure is deliberately conservative everyday guidance rather than a breaking point: it is about the table feeling solid in daily use with no wobble, flex or movement. At bench height we think in people rather than kilos, and a set suits benches seating up to five. At coffee height they suit any coffee table top. The frame is TIG and MIG welded into one piece, so every joint is a continuous bead rather than a stamped spot weld. One exception: the standard X-Frame at table height, where we guide to 80kg because the cross geometry carries load differently.

All six share the same 75 x 25mm steel and the same welding, so the choice is about how you want the table to look. Square is a plain square, straight lines and simple. A-Frame angles in as it rises and is the most traditional profile. Trapezium is wide at the base and tapers slightly to the top for a modern look. V-Frame is the trapezium inverted, widest at the top. X-Frame is as named. Chunky X-Frame steps up to a heavier 70 x 70mm profile and is the most substantial of the six.

Self-adhesive felt pads come in the box with every set, and for most rooms they are all you need. If your floor is uneven or your top has a slight twist, swap to levelling feet: they screw in and let you wind one corner up or down until the rocking stops. For commercial settings and heavy wear there are locking feet, the same stainless foot we fit to our outdoor range. Choose the option you want from the foot selector on this page.

The legs are not the limiting factor. How far a table can span comes down to the stiffness of the top, not the legs underneath it, so a long build in a thin or non-structural material such as 18mm ply or MDF can flex in the middle and feel wobbly even on solid legs. Fitting an L-channel stiffening bar along the underside adds that stiffness back, and in a thick solid wood or structural top the legs alone are fine. Extra legs can work, but a stiffening bar is usually the better first move: getting even pressure across three sets of legs is almost impossible, so either the middle or the end legs end up floating and the table rocks. Extra legs are also harder to tuck chairs around and clean under, and they break up the look of a two-leg table.

These are the indoor range, so we do not recommend them for garden or patio use. The powder coat and the zinc-plated screws are specified for indoor conditions. We build the same leg for outside as our outdoor box section range, which comes with stainless steel fixings and adjustable feet, and carries a 2-year outdoor guarantee.

Black is a satin black powder coat and it is the one most people choose, so it is the safest match for most rooms. White is a white powder coat, useful when you want the legs to recede rather than frame the table. Steel Clear Coat is a transparent satin powder coat over the steel itself, so you keep the natural steel look with a protective coat over the top: customers building from scaffold boards and reclaimed timber tend to pick this one.